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Written By - by Muhammed Ismail - 05/22/2007 |
Link to Original Article
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The
ability to Read the Beach is a skill that takes a lifetime to perfect.
It is however a necessary skill to acquire as it effectively informs us
where to place our bait and increases our chances of catching a fish.
The ability to read the beach allows us to identify sloughs, highways,
gutters and currents just by viewing the wave action.
Tidal action,
currents and the wind cause forces that push bodies of water towards
the shore forming waves along the way. The waves push upwards as it
passes over sand bars. Sand Bars are bodies of sand that are not fixed
and run along the sea shore. Just as sand dunes are affected by the
wind, sand bars are affected by the action of the water.
The landscape under the water is more or less similar to the
beach associated with it. Notice the landscape while standing on the
shoreline with your back facing the sea. In most cases the landscape of
the seabed will be similar.
Looking out to sea you will notice that the swell is more or
less constant. As you scan closer to shore you will find that the swell
becomes higher and waves begin to form. Do not follow the waves to
shore just yet. Zoom in to this area and you will notice that waves are
constantly being formed in that particular spot. Okay, now start
focusing to the right and left and you will find that the first wave is
being formed at a similar distance all along the beach. This allows us
to draw a mental picture of the sand bar pushing up the swell that
forms the first wave.
Now follow the
first wave to the next swell and you will find the next sand bar
running along the beach. You may find three or more sand bars. The
seabed in between the sand bars are the lower points of the shoreline
and are called the Highways. The location of the sand bars remain the
same only for a day or two. They are changing constantly depending on
the forces exerted on them by tidal and wave action. The only constant
is that as long as there are waves there are sand bars.
Thus far we have learned that water moves towards the shore
forming waves as it passes over sand bars. We notice that this water
travels towards the seashore but we cannot see the water return to the
ocean. No waves are formed facing the opposite direction. This is
because water arrives on the surface and returns to the ocean along the
sea bed causing a current commonly called the backwash or rip currents.
The strong force of the backwash literary rips through weak points in
the sand bars forming drains or gutters.
At this stage, just by looking out to sea, we are able to
isolate the number of sand bars and their shapes allowing us to
pinpoint the highways inbetween. We also know that the rip currents
break the sand bars at their weakest points. Identifying the gutters
are also very important. All we have to do is to take a closer look at
the swell as it forms the first wave rolling over breaking into the
highway. Scanning along this line you will find areas where the waves
are not breaking but remain a mre swell. These are the gutters and
drains. Since the sand bars are washed away at these points, there is
nothing to push the swell up to cause the wave.
The highways between the sand bars offer predatory fish a safe
passage while on the lookout for food. Like any predator, its survival
factor lies in the efficiency of the hunt. These predators or as we
fishermen call them Game Fish lie in wait at the intersections were the
backwash cuts the sand bars. The rip currents wash little fish and
other food practically into the jaws of the gamefish which lay in
ambush at these points.
Visit http://www.thesardinerun.co.za for more information on
the Annual Sardine Run, the Greatest Shoal on Earth, Exclusive to the
East Coast of South Africa.
