
| Written By - Jim Dicken - 09/4/2007 | |
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Link to Original Article here |
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I am not much of a story teller. I simply
write what I remember, the best I can, in words that are simple.
Basically I see myself as an average person and
below average business man. I tell you this to put my trip
into a perspective.
Not in my wildest dreams would I have envisioned
myself traveling to Brazil to go fishing. In the end I really
went to learn how to take others fishing in this
very remote land and to film the adventure of my latter lifetime.
Now for those who do not know me, that is a statement. In 1973 I traveled around the world. I thought that
was an adventure of a lifetime as well, but I am
finding as I get older that any adventure you take can be
just that.
I digress....
The trip started to gel about a year before when
Leo Madiera contacted me concerning advertising on Fishing
Guides Home Page, my website. I told him I would
help him out, and would not charge him, since he only wanted to advertise for a
fairly short period of time about a trip he was going to promote that was coming
up in a few months.
In the end he came to Kentucky to meet me and
to meet with others who were interested in a trip to Brazil for Peacock Bass.
We became friends and Leo from Rio as he
likes to be called decided to work with me on a trip to the Amazon that was
supposed to go with a TV show from Canada. WE advertised the trip, and Leo
insisted that I come on the trip at his expense. All I had to do was get to
Miami.
Well, being a less than average business man
I had to sweat the $350.00 tickets to Miami and finally got the cash together
about 3 weeks before the trip after saving for over a year.
Along with the Visa and medical shots, (All
of which are good for 10 years) I was into around $600.00.
That is a lot for me.
I had purchased a Video Camera for my business,
in order to promote guides and charters that I knew and worked with. Luckily I
got to use it a lot on this trip.
We arrived in Manaus late in the evening, and
spent the night at a nice hotel in downtown Manaus.
Manaus is a bit different than we are used to
here in the States. The downtown area is full of street vendors. They are so
close together that it is hard to move from one to the other. At night the
Carts which look like tall beverage carts are wrapped in Orange and locked. The
streets are lined with the carts, left in place for the next days sales.
The schedule there is also a bit different.
They work early and late, taking the hottest part of the day to relax, rest and
to recuperate. Recuperate you ask? yes, because at around 11 PM the fun
starts.. that is the time folks go out and stay out till 2 or 3 AM. They get up
around 8 and go to work and take a nap during the heat of the day.
We, Jim Kincaid, Frank and his son Dustin,
Leo from Rio and I, Jim Dicken flew into the small river town of Santarem the
next day early and had a wild and exciting ride to the docks. The roads in
Brazil are in desperate need of repair. They are a patch work of patched
potholes and patched patches. There really is no, NO Passing zone, as we passed
slower vehicles in semi blind curves a couple of times, especially when you are
riding in a VW bus that is a butt tightener. (Public Transport in Brazil)
We got to the dock around 10 AM and met with
the Captain and owner of Pescamazon Amazon Tours. Nelson Lage is an athletic
man who has a commanding but friendly presence. WE loaded our bags into the
House Boat that would be our home for the next week and watched as the crew
loaded bottled water, soft drinks and some of our food for the trip.
The town of Santarem is at the confluence of
a Clear Water river and the Amazon.. (There are 3 kinds of rivers... The Black
Water Rivers which mostly flow north to south into the Amazon, and carry tons
of plant material which raises their PH levels high enough that there are no
mosquito's, Clearwater rivers which flow south to north which come from more
mountainous regions and flow mostly over rock. Then there are the White Water,
or muddy rivers of the West to East, main of which is the Amazon River itself
which runs brown.)
At Santarem the Tapejos river, a clear river
meets the Amazon, and the two rivers do not mix for miles down the Amazon.
There is a clear delineation of water as if 2 rivers run side by side until the
two actually mix.
WE left Santarem, and not too long after we
began our journey began to have sightings of things in the water.. Mostly they
were fins and grey colors which we found out were bottle nose dolphins which
come up the river and stay there. Dustin, Franks son, then started to see Pink
things in the water. He managed to see several before the rest of us managed to
catch site of the same thing. In the Amazon there is a subspecies of bottle
nose dolphin that is PINK! I tried for days to catch one on tape but never did
manage to catch one though I am still going through the tapes to see if I might
have gotten one by accident.
After a night of traveling down the Amazon we
ran up the Trambetos river to Oriximina.. it is pronounced Orr ih she me na,
which actually sounds Japanese. We got up the next morning and got out on the
water for a nice day of fishing. Frank caught the first fish, a 2.5 pound black
Piranha and then hooked another of 4.5 pounds which we talked him into kissing.
You will find that video on YouTube.com and on Fishin.com on the Video Page for
my Amazon Trip. Leo our guide managed to toss a $4.00 lure into the tree's and
we got to see early how hard our guides were willing to work to get a lure
back. Again I shot video of one of the guides climbing close to 20 feet up in
the tree to get the lure. It is a bit shaky because I had to zoom in pretty
close to get the shot and the boat was not very steady.
Since the fishing for Peacocks was not as
good as the Captain Liked we took the boat and went further up the river to
Faro on the Nhamunda River the next day. Faro is across the river from the town
of Nhamunda named after the river. The confluence of the Nhamunda and the
Amazon river is where the Spanish Explorers and Missionaries came upon the
Women Warrior race that the river is named for.
Faro is a smallish town with a few amenities
including ONE Internet Cafe of sorts. You can try to get online but the dial up
speeds and the connections to simple email programs are not very good. I was
unable to connect to any account to get a message out. THERE ARE NO CELL PHONES
in the Amazon.. LOL.. not one cell tower anywhere.
The Nhmaunda river is one of the least
peopled rivers in the Amazon. The river is mostly jungle and fairly flat land
that is not amenable to growing much but Cattle and occasionally soy beans due to
very sandy soils. However this does mean it is great for growing numbers of
Peacock Bass. The bass here are smallish.. Most weigh between 2.5 to 8 pounds
but they hit like freight trains. Do not take me wrong, you will find an
occasional double digit fish in this river, but the species here do not get as
big as on the Rio Negro and other rivers west of the Nhamunda. The Advantage of
the Nhamunda is that the rainy season stops in early June so by the end of July
NORMALLY the water has receded enough to concentrate the fish into lagoons and
the main river. On this trip due to early rains to the south the Amazon River
had filled not allowing the Nhamunda to drain enough and we found our selves
fishing hundreds of thousands of acres of extra water that was backed up into
trees and swamps and had the fish scattered.
I will say up front we only caught 7 total
Peacock Bass, but we also caught several LARGE Piranha, over 2.5 pounds up to
4.5 pounds and if you ever thought of what a 5 pound Bluegill could do this is
the creature that can show you. Piranha get to over 8 pounds on the Nhamunda in
places. YES they have a row of VERY sharp teeth as our interpreter Leo pointed
out and later proved.. He caught a nice Piranha only to have it bite his line
off above the lure. This was the only lure we lost during the entire trip.. The
guides went to great lengths to retrieve any lure caught in a myriad of trees,
shrubs or underwater obstructions.
Jim Kincaid and a Black Piranha..
Our days were filled with adventure. If you
check out www.amazonfishingtrip.blip.tv
you will find links to various videos I shot. I will give a short synopsis of
them as I tell the stories..
The Jacare: ON around the 4th day of the trip
Jim Kincaid and I were working our way back a slough / channel in the jungle.
Our guide Junior spotted a Jacare' as they are called there, we call them
Cayman, but they are relatives of the American Alligator. He helped me put the
camera on the animal and I began to zoom in to get a better picture of the
animal. As I did this he started to say Jacare', Jacare' and I was about to
turn and tell him YEAH, I got it! when I realized that a small dugout with a
smallish man in it was coming through the jungle. I spotted him as he came into
the frame of the camera. At this point I knew he was Dangerously close to this
reptile that was large enough to do serious harm if not Eat him. In fact he hit
the reptile with his dugout RIGHT ON THE HEAD. The animal swirled and left. I
tend to wonder if the animal was laying in wait since the man had picked a
specific small almost invisible path. Still he came through laughing about the
incident and gave us information about the fishing in the local area. About an
hour later we were forced back to the boat when a hard rain began to fall. Right
after the rain stopped we went back out toward the same area and spotted
another (or the same one) Jacare' in the middle of the lagoon. I got a fairly
good video of it swimming into the jungle from the open water and you can tell
he swam through a tree as the reptile bumps the tree under water and the tree
drops water droplets onto the water.
ON a couple of occasions our guides took us
down what I can only call water paths in the jungle. Places with land on both
sides but just enough water in a small channel to float the boat. These were
always intense trips, since we were close to the land where ANYTHING could have
been, as well as having trees over our heads that could contain ANYTHING as
well. The guides pointed out plants that could cut us, and also that had nettle
like stickers that could cling to you and cause abrasions and stinging.
At the end of the tunnel of sorts was always a lagoon that looked like
something out of a movie. Totally untouched by man's hand except for a few
places on the way in that had indications of Machete's being used to keep the
trail clear. NO Trash, no lures, no line, it was to us Virgin Water, untouched
by any other fisherman. Was it? I do not know but each of the 5 travelers felt
that they had visited special places that no one else would likely see unless
they take the same trip, at the same time, with the same water conditions...
which on the Amazon could be a one in a million shot.
Jim Kincaid caught the biggest fish of the
trip. It was a 21 pound Parana or Red Tail Catfish. This is probably the
pretties catfish you will ever see. The Piranha has a yellowish belly, a dark
greenish brown color on its back and a very red tail. Again there is video of
the entire fight. In particular listen to Leo in the background. He was
convinced that our meager 50 pound test POWER PRO line would not handle this
kind of fish. He is constantly trying to talk Jim Kincaid into putting pressure
on the fish to get it in.. I finally told him that he had read the wrong book
on fishing.. Us Kentucky and Illinois boys know how to catch catfish.. of any
kind.
Ooops.. I almost left out the best part of
the whole trip.. The food. Each evening we had a meal that was LITERALLY fit
for a king. The tastes were knew but fantastic. Brazilian cuisine is
strong on fruits and meat. Each meal had 3 meats. It ranged from Chicken, beef
and pork to Fish and Jungle Meat.. yes we ate a jungle animal that the Captain
purchased from a local. Not sure if it was Javelina, Capibara or another animal
but it was delicious. Nothing on the trip was wasted. Our cook Jura was a
master cook who works at hotels in Belem a city of over 2 million farther down
the Amazon River from Santarem. If we had left overs they were used in the next
meal as a stew or in a unique sauce. There was always pasta and rice at
the meal to mix with whatever you wanted. There was a fruit dish that was made
from a Brazilian Fruit. The pulp was used for pudding and for other deserts,
the juice was served each morning. The juice was remarkably un-sweet for a
fruit.
In the end all agreed that the trip was a
total success despite the lack of Peacock Bass on this particular trip.
Why?
Sometimes you just get a good group of guys
together who enjoy a journey and each others company more than the fishing
itself. This group was one of those. The group was offered a discount on the
trip, but universally all refused it. The guides and the captain worked hard,
and definitely got us into the right places. Hell they got us into places I
would never have ever in my life found if I had not been there. Placido the
local guide who was hired for the trip, knew of places so out of the way that
we all felt privileged just to see them.
Sometimes its not the fish that makes the
journey.. some times its the adventure.
If you are interested in a Trip to the Amazon on
the Rio Negro River in September of 2008 please contact Jim Dicken. JimD072@aol.com
Cost is around $2800 for 7 days in the Jungle
on a houseboat, with excellent food, excellent guides and excellent companions.

